Falk Feddersen: Class Nearshore Physical Oceanography (SIO 261, Spring 2017)

Nearshore Physical Oceanography

SIO 261 Section 902560
Professor Falk Feddersen
falk at coast.ucsd.edu
Phone: 858.534.4345
Office: 2nd floor CCS - blue door with sticker that says Quit Beefin, Eat Lobstah

Class: Monday/Wed or T/Th time TBD Center for Coastal Studies Basement Conference Room
Office Hours: TBD

Course Requirements Completing of all the assigned homework and a final exam. The final grade will be based 2/3 on problem sets and 1/3 on final exam. Students should enroll in four (4) units as either letter or S/U.

Description This course, Nearshore Physical Oceanography, will cover the basic physics of the nearshore and coastal regions spanning the surfzone to the outer shelf. Topics covered will include how surface gravity waves, winds, and tides force circulation and its intrinsic response across this region. Additional topics are also possible.


Surface Gravity Waves
  • Lecture 1: Review of linear surface gravity waves
  • Lecture 2: Flux-conservation equations, wave energy, energy flux, and mass flux (Stokes drift)
  • Lecture 3: Wave momentum flux: Radiation Stresses (Chapter 4, Longuet-Higgins & Stewart, 1964, read first 8 pages)
  • Lecture 4: Cross-shore wave transformation - shoaling and breaking (Chapter 9)
Depth-Averaged Processes
  • Lecture 5: Depth-integrated models for nearshore circulation: Inviscid (Chapter 10, Smith 2006)
  • Lecture 6: Bottom stress and Lateral Mixing (Chapter 11)
  • Lecture 7: Local Alongshore Uniform Dynamics: Surfzone (setup + alongshore currents, Ch 5, 13, & 14)
  • Lecture 8: Local Alongshore Uniform Dynamics: Inner-shelf (Chapter 15, Lentz et al. 1999 JGR)
  • Lecture 9: Local Alongshore Uniform Dynamics: Shelf
  • Lecture 10: Edge Waves and Shelf waves (Chapter 12)
  • Lecutre 11: Barotropic Flow Around Headlands (Signell & Geyer 1991)
Depth-Resolving Processes
  • Lecture 12: Shallow Ekman layers response to alongshelf forcing.
  • Lecture 13: Wave and Tidal boundary layers + steady streaming
  • Lecture 14: Current Boundary Layers
  • Lecture 15: Stokes-Coriolis Force & Vortex Force (light)
  • Lecture 16: Outer-shelf Stratified Upwelling Response
  • Lecutre:17: Remotely forced upwelling
  • Lecture 18: Inner-shelf Stratified Upwelling and Downwelling (Austin & Lentz 2002)
  • Lecture 19: Headland induced Upwelling (Gan and Allen 2002)
  • Surfzone Lab

Lecture notes will be posted here.

Papers and Sources to be discussed in class
  • Longuet-Higgins M.S. and R.W. Stewart, Radiation stress in water waves: A physical discussion with application, Deep Sea Research, Vol 11, 529-563, 1964. LINK
  • Lentz and Fewings, 2012: The Wind- and Wave-Driven Inner-Shelf Circulation, Annual Reviews of Marine Science. LINK
  • Allen, J. S., 1980, Models of Wind-Driven Currents on the Continental Shelf, Annual Reviews Fliud Dynamics, LINK
  • Austin and Lentz, 2002, The Inner Shelf Response to Wind-Driven Upwelling and Downwelling, JPO, LINK
  • Gan and Allen, 2002, A modeling study of shelf circulation off northern California in the region of the Coastal Ocean Dynamics Experiment: Response to relaxation of upwelling winds, JGR, LINK
  • Xu and Bowen, 1994, Wave- and Wind-Driven Flow in Water of Finite Depth, JPO LINK
  • Smith, J. 2006, Wave and Current Interactions in Finite Depth, JPO, LINK.
  • McWilliams, Restrepo, Lane, 2004, An asymptotic theory for the interaction of waves and currents in coastal waters, JFM, LINK
  • Lentz et al. JGR 1999
  • Signell and Geyer, 1991, Transient eddy formation around headlands, JGR LINK
  • Wolankski et al.,Island wakes in shallow coastal waters, JGR 1984 LINK
  • Pattiaratchi et al., Island wakes and headland eddies: A comparison between remotely sensed data and laboratory experiments, JGR, 1987 LINK
  • Radermacher et al., Tidal flow separation at protruding beach nourishments, JGR, 2016. LINK
  • Dong et al., Island Wakes in Deep Water, JPO 2007 LINK
SHELF AND EDGE WAVES PROJECT Resources There are some books that have relvant material in them. These include
  • Kundu, Chapter on Gravity Waves
  • Mei, CC, The Applied Dynamics of Surface Gravity Waves
  • Svendsen, IA, Nearshore Hydrodynamics
  • Dean and Dalrymple, Water Wave Mechanics for Scientists and Engineers

If you have any questions or comments, please contact me at falk@coast.ucsd.edu.