Physics of Waves, Beaches, and Surfing - SIO 87 (Spring 2015)
Physics of Waves, Beaches, and Surfing SIO 87 : Spring 2015
SIO 87 Section 833060, 1 unit S/UProfessor Falk Feddersen & David Sandwell
falk at coast.ucsd.edu
Phone: 858.534.4345
Office: 2nd floor CCS - blue door with sticker that says Quit Beefin, Eat Lobstah
Meetings Thursday 5:00-5:50 PM Munk Lab Seminar Room (303) Scripps Institution of Oceanography
(Map to Munk Lab: UCSD-SIO Shuttle Info
Also will be meeting at SIO Pier and CCS Basement
Description This 1 credit freshman seminar will cover three topics in physics related to waves, beaches, and surfing. We will cover generation, propagation, and breaking of waves; how beach profiles affect the waves and are changed by the waves, the energetics of a surfer riding a wave; There will be a number of SIO pier and beach labs. Prerequisite: Some physics or calculus, and the ability to plot data!
Course Requirements Students should register as S/U. Students will be expected to present at least one paper during the quarter and participate in the discussion each week. To encourage thoughtfull discussion, registered students will be asked to submit a hand-written question or comment on the paper prior to the commencement of the discussion.
Class Schedule
| DATE |
TOPIC |
ASSIGNMENT/HW |
LECTURER |
| 2 APR |
Introductions |
Read Ch. 8
of Oceanography - Waves and Water Dynamics |
Feddersen |
| 9 APR | LAB: SIO Pier: Beach Profiles 1. | Plot beach profile | Feddersen |
| 16 APR | Waves Across the Pacific Lab: Measure wave period |
Optional Reading - Blacks Beach, 1947 | Feddersen |
| 23 APR |
NO CLASS | -- | -- |
| 30 APR |
Wave generation, propagation, refraction: What makes Blacks so good |
HW 1. Ch. 8, problems 5, 9, 12, 16 |
Feddersen |
| 7 MAY |
Energetics of a
surfer |
|
Sandwell |
| 14 MAY |
Surfzone Lab | Feddersen |
|
| 21 MAY | Surfing Lab |
Sandwell & Feddersen | |
| 28 MAY |
LAB: Beach Profiles 2 |
Feddersen | |
| 4 JUNE |
Presentations & Pizza | Feddersen & Sandwell |
If you have any questions or comments, please contact me at falk@coast.ucsd.edu.