Physics of Waves, Beaches, and Surfing - SIO 87 (Spring 2015)

Physics of Waves, Beaches, and Surfing SIO 87 : Spring 2015

SIO 87 Section 833060, 1 unit S/U
Professor Falk Feddersen & David Sandwell
falk at coast.ucsd.edu
Phone: 858.534.4345
Office: 2nd floor CCS - blue door with sticker that says Quit Beefin, Eat Lobstah

Meetings Thursday 5:00-5:50 PM Munk Lab Seminar Room (303) Scripps Institution of Oceanography
(Map to Munk Lab: UCSD-SIO Shuttle Info
Also will be meeting at SIO Pier and CCS Basement

Description This 1 credit freshman seminar will cover three topics in physics related to waves, beaches, and surfing. We will cover generation, propagation, and breaking of waves; how beach profiles affect the waves and are changed by the waves, the energetics of a surfer riding a wave; There will be a number of SIO pier and beach labs. Prerequisite: Some physics or calculus, and the ability to plot data!


Course Requirements Students should register as S/U. Students will be expected to present at least one paper during the quarter and participate in the discussion each week. To encourage thoughtfull discussion, registered students will be asked to submit a hand-written question or comment on the paper prior to the commencement of the discussion.


Class Schedule
DATE
TOPIC
ASSIGNMENT/HW
LECTURER
2 APR
Introductions: Tour of Scripps Read Ch. 8 of Oceanography - Waves and Water Dynamics
Feddersen
9 APR LAB: SIO Pier: Beach Profiles 1. Plot beach profile Feddersen
16 APR Waves Across the Pacific
Lab: Measure wave period
Optional Reading - Blacks Beach, 1947 Feddersen
23 APR
NO CLASS ----
30 APR
Wave generation, propagation, refraction:
What makes Blacks so good

HW 1.  Ch. 8, problems 5, 9, 12, 16
Feddersen
7 MAY
Energetics of a surfer

Sandwell
 14 MAY
Surfzone Lab
Feddersen
21 MAY Surfing Lab
Sandwell & Feddersen
28 MAY
LAB: Beach Profiles 2
Feddersen
4 JUNE
Presentations & Pizza Feddersen & Sandwell



If you have any questions or comments, please contact me at falk@coast.ucsd.edu.