Winter Quarter 2007: Learning about Wave Models

REFDIF Model Info

• REFDIF Version 2.5 source code and Manual - REFDIF.tar.gz
• Official REFDIF web site
• A REFDIF tutorial by Robert Dalrymple
• Papers
  • Berkhoff 1972 - Derivation of Mild Slope Equation
  • Radder JFM - Parabolic Approximations
  • Kirby and Dalyrmple, JFM 1983 - start of REFDIF
  • REFDIF V2.5 manual as PDF
  • O'Reilly and Guza, 1993: A comparison of spectral wave models in the Southern California bight, Coastal Eng., 19, 263-282.
    Evaluation of REFDIF like model for Southern California. Importance of diffration vs. refraction. The start of CDIP.
  • Magne et al. JGR 2007 - swell propagation across La Jolla & Scripps Canyons from NCEX experiment. In case you wanted to really know why Blacks was epic!
  
  
• Compling REFDIF:

REFDIF questions

• What is the mild slope equation? What Physics does it describe?
• What is the parabolic approximation? Why is this useful? Benefits and Drawbacks?

SWAN model info

• SWAN Version 40.51 source code and Manual - swan4051.tar.gz
  
  Note: swan is written in fortran90. This requires that one has a fortran90 compiler. The default gnu fortran compiler (g77) will not work. If you have a mac then you can get the nearly brand new gfortran compiler from here. Another page for binaries (linux, windoze, and mac) is at here. For installation see the file INSTALL.README
  
  For MACS, NOTE: if you are on a Mac, please be sure you are running 10.4 and have the Developer Tools stuff installed. Otherwise gfortran won't work. It expects one to be running 10.4. Then, in the swan directory you have to type $make config. if it doesn't find your gfortran compiler then you'll have to go into the file macros.inc and hack it in by hand. Actually here is a version that should work macros.inc. Then type $make ser to do the compiling. Hopefull there are no errors!
  
  For linux, - is anyone using linux? - i've got gfortran to work and swan to compile - but one does have to set the LD_LIBRARY_PATH. Let me know if anone has problems. I may only be of limited usefulness with windows. Again the process is the same: $make config and $make ser
  
  
• Official SWAN web site
  
• SWAN EXAMPLES
  • SWAN Refraction Example
  
  
• Papers and Manuals
  • SWAN Users Manual -
  • SWAN Technical Manual - lots of SWAN details
  • SWAN Implementation Manual - How to install and build SWAN
  • Booij, N., R. C. Ris, L. H. Holthuijsen, A third-generation wave model for coastal regions 1. Model description and validation, J. Geophys. Res., 104(C4), 7649-7666, 10.1029/98JC02622, 1999.
  • Ris, R. C., L. H. Holthuijsen, N. Booij, A third-generation wave model for coastal regions 2. Verification, J. Geophys. Res., 104(C4), 7667-7682, 10.1029/1998JC900123, 1999.